Caribou Crossing, the Cocktail

One of the magazines we get that I really enjoy is tidings, a Canadian food and wine publication. In the May/June edition that recently arrived, there’s a feature article about cocktails, one of which is called “Caribou Crossing” – and, of course, I can’t let a name like that pass without telling you about it! :)

The Caribou Crossing was created by Nishantha Nepulangoda, mixologist at the Blowfish Restaurant and Sake Bar in Toronto. I’ve posted the basic recipe below, but what isn’t described there is what “Cointreau caviar” is. Also known as alcohol pearls, you can find directions to create them (so you can make the perfect Caribou Crossing!) at MolecularRecipes.com.

And here’s the basic recipe for the Caribou Crossing cocktail:


Caribou Crossing cocktail

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Wildlife, Cruise ships and an Aussie in a Lotus!

Driving to Skagway may be one of my procrastination techniques, but it’s a particularly good one :) On Friday I made the drive despite a mediocre weather report, and it turned out to be an excellent day.

I was on the road just before 9:30, and 20 minutes later took this telephoto shot of the fresh snow on Montana Mountain at Carcross.

Fresh snow on Montana Mountain at Carcross, Yukon in May

I stopped briefly at Emerald Lake hoping that the ice was gone, but although the colour of the water can be seen now, there’s still a layer of ice on it.

I was very pleased to see 4 caribou beside the highway just a couple of miles south of Carcross, including this cow, who I think is pregnant.

A pregnant caribou cow at Carcross, Yukon

I hadn’t been down to the silver-mining ghost town of Conrad in a long time, so made that detour. The road was in much better condition that I had expected.

silver-mining ghost town of Conrad, Yukon

This was the lower terminus of an aerial tramway that ran to the Mountain Hero and other Conrad silver mines, and the mine dock.

Conrad, Yukon

One of the two buildings still standing (barely). The other was a cookhouse for the mines, this one was probably a store.

Conrad, Yukon

Back on the highway, I had a look at the trail that used to be called the Sam Magee Trail but has now thankfully been given an appropriate name, the Mountain Hero (it was originally the trail used to construct the aerial tramway).

The Mountain Hero hiking trail, Yukon

The “Welcome to the Yukon” sign at the border is one of the stops that every tour bus makes. For some reason this scene makes me cringe now – I certainly don’t look back at the 17 years I spent being part of it with any regret.

'Welcome to the Yukon' sign on the South Klondike Highway

There were several mountain goats and Dall sheep on Dail Peak directly above the buses – the two upper animals are Dall sheep, the lower ones are mountain goats.

Mountain goats and Dall sheep on Dail Peak, Yukon

Another fresh snow scene along Windy Arm.

Fresh snow on the peaks above Windy Arm, BC

In another month when water levels are much higher, the Tutshi River will be an short but excellent whitewater rafting river.

Tutshi River, BC

The new restaurant at the Yukon Suspension Bridge is a few days away from completion. The view is quite impressive, and it should do well.

The new restaurant at the Yukon Suspension Bridge

The White Pass & Yukon Route rail line at Ptarmigan Point.

WP&YR rail line at Ptarmigan Point, BC

You can see the snow falling in this photo taken at Fraser, but you can’t see the strong, bitterly cold wind that was blowing. The temperature was +2°C (35.6°F) but the wind chill was well below freezing.

Snow falling at Fraser, BC in May

I had thought briefly about taking the motorcycle on this trip – I’m really glad that I didn’t!

Snowdrift across the South Klondike Highway in May

The view at the summit was much less impressive than it is on a nice day. The temperature here had dropped to 0 (32).

The view from the White Pass summit

Right at the Black Lakes, I spent quite a while watching this very healthy-looking black bear getting his fill of Spring salad.

Black bear at Skagway, Alaska

This ended my bear viewing.

Semi on the South Klondike Highway

The Carnival Spirit was again the only cruise ship in port. Because of the high winds, she’d berthed at the somewhat sheltered Railroad Dock. I always wonder how many people on the ship had any idea of the weather they might encounter this time of year – my guess is very few.

Carnival Spirit at Skagway, Alaska

I was very surprised to see a tour boat from Major Marine in Seward. Always curious about such things, I’ve sent them an email to see if they’re thinking about running tours here.

Major Marine tour boat in Skagway, Alaska

I had lunch at Glacier Smoothies, and when I pulled away, I was behind this very interesting car. I snapped this shot with the idea that I’d check his blog when I got home (the URL, http://elsiefrombottomtotop.blogspot.com is written on the back of the car). He turned left, I turned right…. and then a block up the road, I made a U-turn and followed him.

Giles Cooper and his Lotus in Skagway, Alaska

I introduced myself to Giles Cooper, and after he fueled up, we went for coffee and I got a brief rundown on this adventure (I’ll let you get the details from his blog). The weather has definitely not been his friend (rain, snow, low clouds and now wind as well), but he has a whole lot of miles to cover yet, so I hope it changes very soon. One of the questions I asked him was “why the Lotus?”. He asked if I would have followed him if he was driving a Subaru – no, I probably wouldn’t have. He simply meets far more people this way. And it is bloody cool! :)

Giles Cooper and his Lotus Elise in Skagway, Alaska

Another tour I need to check out – there are two of these trucks. I was on a similar tour, though in a a huge “monster truck”, at Denali a few years ago, and it was great fun.

4x4 tours at Skagway, Alaska

With the high country frozen, none of the waterfalls are very impressive. In another month Pitchfork Falls (or Goat Lake Falls) is definitely a photo op.

Pitchfork Falls along the South Klondike Highway

Back into the snow and wind at the railway’s loop track at Fraser.

The WP&YR loop track at Fraser, BC

Looking north along Windy Arm. The delta on the left, where Dail Creek flows into the lake, was the site of the small town of Wynton during the silver rush.

I stopped at Pooley Canyon, where mountain goats can sometimes be seen, and there were 3 visible at the top of the canyon.

Mounatin goats above Pooley Canyon, Yukon

This is a broader view of the same scene above. This is an exceptionally rugged canyon with access that’s tough to locate. I’ve only been to the bottom of the upper canyon twice (there’s another Conrad silver mine, the Vault, there), but I’ll be leading some friends in later in the summer, probably in July.

Pooley Canyon, Yukon

One more stop, at Carcross to check on the progress of the rebuilding of the railway bridge.

The railway bridge at Carcross, Yukon

All in all, despite the weather, it had been an excellent day! Now back to work – no, really! :)

Posted in Cruises, Photos, Railroads, Trains, Travel, Wildlife, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 7 Comments

Touring Haines – Haines Junction – Whitehorse

This is the second of 2 posts describing my 4-day tour of the Golden Circle Route from Whitehorse to Skagway, Haines, Haines Junction and back with tour company Road Scholar.

Saturday began cold and wet – this was the view from my room at the Captain’s Choice Motel at 05:54am. I Skyped with Cathy and she said that it was a beautiful morning in Whitehorse, so Julie and I had breakfast, searched unsuccessfully for a store with Native art (one that was open, that is), and then headed north towards the sunshine, on the Haines Highway.

A cold, wet morning in Haines

I didn’t make any photo stops until just past the Haines Summit. The clouds were low, blocking all the glacier views, and shortly after the quick and simple crossing back into Canada, it began snowing quite heavily. The clouds started to thin a bit just before the Summit and Julie managed to get a photo of the dramatic peak known as The Three Guardsmen through the mist.

Just past the Summit, we met many Willow ptarmigan, and I was able to capture this image of one of the males flying away from us.

Willow ptarmigan at the Haines Summit, Alaska

A strong wind made it very cold through the pass, but there were still some good photo ops.

Haines Highway, British Columbia

This whimsical sign at a road leading to a group of cabins was worth a stop :)

A funny sign along the Haines Highway

We stopped at the Native fishing village of Klukshu. Only one of the many cabins appeared to be occupied.

Klukshu

One of the cabins in today’s Klukshu – fish all day as your ancestors did, then watch satellite TV at night.

Klukshu

We had planned to do some hiking along the Haines Highway, but all of the trails were still deep in snow, so the campground at Kathleen Lake was our next stop.

Kathleen Lake, Kluane National Park

The picnic shelter at Kathleen Lake has been brightened up by these fish/water murals.

Art at Kathleen Lake, Yukon

We had planned to reach Haines Junction around dinner time but after making few stops, decided to head west to Sheep Mountain and do the hike planned for tomorrow morning. The Tachäl Dhäl (Sheep Mountain) Visitor Centre was still closed, but there were lots of Dall sheep visible on the sunny slopes.

Dall sheep on Sheep Mountain, Yukon

The view up Slim’s River from the visitor centre.

Slim's River, Yukon

It was a lovely day to hike the Soldiers Summit Trail, despite the very cold wind blowing off the peaks. This is the view over the broad Slim’s River delta and Kluane Lake.

Slim's River delta and Kluane Lake

The interpretive signage along the trail is very good, and there are several benches to enjoy the view from.

Soldiers Summit Trail

We were back in Haines Junction by 5:00pm, and checked into the Alcan Motor Inn. It’s hard to keep track of the changes in some communities – in “the Junction”, the Kluane Park Inn (“the KPI”) has closed, the cafe at the Cozy Corner Motel has re-opened after being closed for several years, the grocery store has closed, there’s a new post office, and there’s a new mountain-viewing area across from the police station. With huge staff cutbacks at Parks Canada announced last week, even the status of park facilities isn’t known yet.

Alcan Motor Inn - Haines Junction, Yukon

The view from my room at the Alcan was quite impressive.

The view from my room at the Alcan Motor Inn

The community’s old “mammal muffin” sculpture doesn’t get much attention anymore, but I still like it. I found a funny comment about it online: “This, um, sculpture? is in Haines Junction, and if you look carefully, you’ll notice it’s on a pedestal that’s about 8′ high, so when seen from afar, it looks like a muffin cup, with the mountain and the animals growing out of it. It’s quite possibly the ugliest and most ridiculous thing I’ve seen for a while. Which is why it’s kind of awesome.” “Meandering Michael” has posted some interesting facts about the muffin.

mammal muffin in Haines Junction, Yukon

There’s an old beaver pond a couple of miles up the Alaska Highway that I thought had photo potential in the evening light, so I drove out and shot this at 8:30.

Beaver pond along the Alaska Highway

Julie and I worked on changes and enhancements to the Road Scholar programs until well after midnight last night and were at it again Sunday morning, so didn’t start the drive back to Whitehorse until almost 10:00. Our first stop along the highway was at Canyon Creek, where the historic wagon road bridge is the feature that most people see.

Historic Canyon Creek bridge, Yukon

The cabin, of about the same vintage as the original bridge, is off in the forest at the west end of the bridge. It appears to be a roadhouse used by people traveling to and from the Kluane gold creeks.

Canyon Creek roadhouse

We went for a walk up the original Alaska Highway tote road, and at the top of the hill found lots of prairie crocuses – this is the first flower that appears in the spring.

Prairie crocus, the first Spring flower in the Yukon

Also at the top of the hill is a Native cemetery, with several very old “spirit houses”, and 3 new ones.

Native cemetery at Canyon Creek, Yukon

Looking back down the tote road to the current Alaska Highway.

The Alaska Highway, old and new

The other major stop on the route back to Whitehorse was at the historic village of Champagne. Seldom visited now because of a major highway re-route a few years ago (2006?), I really like the feel of the place, except for the huge signs saying that trespassers in the cemetery will be prosecuted. I happen to like cemeteries, and feel that my visits show my respect for those who are now on the other side – I’m sorry that some people see it other ways.

Champagne, Yukon

One last look at the Champagne of old, and we were off on the last leg of what had been an amazing, though very short, trip around the Golden Circle.

Champagne, Yukon

I’m home now for 3 weeks, with another major Alaska trip starting on May 28th when Cathy and I fly to Vancouver to spend 4 days before boarding the Celebrity Millennium with a small group of friends.

Posted in Alaska Highway, Birds, Communities, History, Photos, Travel, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 1 Comment

Touring the Yukon-Alaska Golden Circle Route

I’m currently on a 4-day tour of what is marketed as the “Golden Circle Route”, from Whitehorse to Skagway, Haines, Haines Junction and back. With me is Julie Odell, Program Administrator for Road Scholar, a tour company which some of you may remember as Elderhostel. They are returning to the Yukon and Alaska in a major way this year, and have 15 programs set up, of which I’m guiding two of 15 days each. My job on this 4-day tour is to show Julie what a tour will look like day-to-day.

After a day of talking about the programs with Julie, 2 admin people from Ruby Range Adventure, who has the contract to run many of the tours, and one of the other guides, Julie and I headed to Skagway at 5:30pm. Our first little bit of wildlife was at the Bove Island viewpoint, where we met this Gray jay (Perisoreus canadensis), who really thought that we should have brought a little something for him to eat.

Gray jay (Perisoreus canadensis)

At Dail Peak, seeing Dall sheep and/or mountain goats isn’t at all unusual, but seeing a herd of almost 20 mountain goats is!

A large herd of mountain goats in the Yukon

As we descended to Tushi Lake, I explained that this is one of the the places where we see black bears first in the spring, and as if on cue, there was this very healthy-looking fellow beside the road.

Black bear along the South Klondike Highway

Nearing the White Pass summit, we stopped for a couple of minutes to watch a very impressive snowmobile stunt with a Sled Porn crew filming it from a helicopter. After the usual quick and friendly crossing into Alaska, we found another black bear (a much skinnier one) grazing beside the road.

Black bear along the South Klondike Highway

We checked into the Westmark Hotel, and I went for dinner at the Skagway Brewing Company and then for a wander to get some photos of Skagway getting ready for the first cruise ship of the season which would arrive early the next morning.

Skagway getting ready for the first cruise ship of the season

I haven’t seen Skagway at night in many years. I really like the experience.

Skagway Alaska in the evening

Some of the stores worked late into the night – this was shot at 9:35.

Skagway getting ready for the first cruise ship of the season

I was down on the dock just after 05:00 yesterday morning, as the cruise ships often arrive that early despite most of the itineraries saying that they arrive at 07:00. The tug Le Cheval Rose was already warming up. This was shot from the new breakwater at 05:20 as a light rain fell.

The tug Le Cheval Rose - Skagway, Alaska

Thinking about the best place to shoot the ship’s arrival from, I decided that with a very low tide, the beach at the mouth of the Skagway River would work, so I walked out the Yakutania Point trail and climbed down to the beach.

Yakutania Point trail - Skagway, Alaska

It seemed funny to be greeting a cruise ship when the mountains had gotten a fresh dusting of snow overnight!

A dusting of snow on the peaks above Skagway, Alaska

I saw the Carnival Spirit when she was still miles down Taiya Inlet – this was shot at 06:22.

Carnival Spirit arrives at Skagway, Alaska

As the ship got tied up, I chatted with one of the guides for Chilkoot Charters who was waiting for his group.

Carnival Spirit arrives at Skagway, Alaska

The first cruise passengers of the 2012 season – let the games begin! The last 2 ships of the year will leave Skagway on September 25th.

Carnival Spirit arrives at Skagway, Alaska

Julie had some business to take care of so we didn’t get started touring until 11:00. One of the first stops was the Pioneer Cemetery (of course!), and from there we took the short walk up to Lower Reid Falls.

Lower Reid Falls - Skagway, Alaska

As one of the programs that Road Scholar is doing is hiking the Chilkoot Trail I offered to show Julie the first mile or so of it. On the way, we stopped to watch these Trumpeter swans on the Taiya River.

Trumpeter swans on the Taiya River, Alaska

The trailhead for the Chilkoot Trail, at the Taiya River bridge.

Chilkoot Trail

Hiking the Chilkoot Trail. The smell of these forests in the spring is so wonderful after a long Yukon winter!

Chilkoot Trail

Although we had perfect hiking weather, the weather forecast had called for showers, and this halo around the sun showed that rain was indeed coming.

Chilkoot Trail

We were back at the ferry dock in Skagway at 1:15 for our 2:30 sailing to Haines on the little Alaska state ferry LeConte. The 235-foot-long vessel can carry 300 passengers and about 34 vehicles and makes the crossing to Haines in a hour at a cost of $111 for our van and 2 people.

Alaska state ferry LeConte

Vehicles have to be backed on to the ferry. While that’s no problem for a car or van, some of the RV drivers with toads or trailers must have an “interesting” experience :)

Vehicles on the Alaska ferry LeConte

Leaving Skagway in a cold, strong wind.

Leaving Skagway Alaska on a ferry

On a warm summer day the solarium and back deck are crowded, but they were almost deserted yesterday. The view was superb but it was just too cold and windy – even for me!

The solarium on the Alaska ferry LeConte

Whenever I go down Taiya Inlet, I marvel at how highway engineers could possibly think that building a highway (and keeping it open!) was reasonable. For visual reasons I’m really glad that the Skagway-Juneau highway project was killed.

Cliffs and rockslides along Taiya Inlet, Alaska

Reaching Haines at 3:30, I decided to drive to Chilkoot Lake, as bears can sometimes be seen fishing along the river. Even if there are no bears, it’s a beautiful drive.

Chilkoot River - Haines, Alaska

From the spot where the photo above was shot, I spotted 4 brown bears up the river. I took some “insurance” shots, then drove up the road to see how close we could get.

Grizzlies fishing along the Chilkoot River, Alaska

We were able to get very close, and spent about 20 minutes with them.

Brown bears fishing along the Chilkoot River, Alaska

They were very successfully fishing for eulachon, a little smelt-type fish that’s usually called “hooligan” in Alaska.

Brown bears fishing along the Chilkoot River, Alaska

There were two sows with their cubs from last year or perhaps even the year before. With food abundant, there was no need for aggression to protect a pool as is sometimes seen when times are lean. I’ve also posted a 1-minute video of the experience at YouTube.

Brown bears fishing along the Chilkoot River, Alaska

Pulling ourselves away from the bears, we continued on to Chilkoot Lake, but it started to rain quite heavily so it was a very short visit.

Chilkoot Lake, Alaska

At the mouth of the Chilkoot River, thousands of gulls were also feeding on the eulachon.

Gulls at the mouth of the Chilkoot River, Alaska

By 7:15 we were settled in our rooms at the Captain’s Choice Motel. We went for a short tour of Haines, then for an excellent dinner of mixed seafoods at The Lighthouse.

Captain's Choice Motel - Haines Alaska

This is the view from my room at the motel. Ahhhhhhhh… :)

Captain's Choice Motel - Haines Alaska

It’s almost 6:00am now, and the day is starting off cold and wet. Today we’ll be driving up the Haines Highway, doing some hiking if the weather cooperates, and spending the night in Haines Junction. It’s been an amazing trip so far – it’s hard to believe that we’ve only been on the road for 36 hours!

Posted in Animals, Bus Driving, Fish & Fishing, Photos, Travel, Waterfalls, Wildlife, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 4 Comments

The Sensuality of Paper

Great photography makes you think. It might make you think about a place you’ve never been, a place you’ve been a hundred times but have never seen in this way, about your feelings regarding the subject – or it might just make you think about the details of everyday life, about the beauty of form large and small, and about the quality of light and what affect it can have. These two images are from a new magazine from the UK, Baron.

Do you see the subjects, a piece of paper and a light fixture – or do they make you think beyond that?

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The Elusive Aurora Borealis

The circumpolar world is right now having the best aurora displays seen in the past decade, but actually seeing them can be a challenge for a variety of reasons. Photographing them can be even more of a challenge.

Even with a great aurora forecast as we had on Monday night, the weather can make viewing them impossible. When the snow started falling about 7:00pm, I looked at weather reports for communities within a 5-hour drive, hoping for a break. The clear skies that I found in Dawson City prompted me to plan an immediate road trip. Looking at other communities in the region, though, the clear skies had the potential to be quite small (and thus gone by the time I got there), and as the snow kept falling, road conditions made my ambitious plan unreasonable :(

Whitehorse weather and aurora forecast

The forecast was for there to be no good viewing weather for days, but the next morning (yesterday), sunshine accompanied the 3 inches of snow that greeted us.

Fresh snow in Whitehorse, April 24, 2012

With both weather and aurora forecasts good last night, I determined to head out for an all-night aurora shooting session. A challenge that I hadn’t expected was getting fuel at 11pm. I expected that any fuel pump that you could use with a credit card would be available anytime as in other cities – but that’s not the way things work in Whitehorse. I tried 4 stations, and finally found a single pump at this station (Integra Tire) that would give me fuel.

Getting gas in Whitehorse at night

With no aurora visible yet at 11:40, I played around with some night shots at my usual starting location, the Lewes Dam. If you’re reading this in a bright room, you may not see an image below at all, but if you’re in a dark room, you’ll see what I saw.

The Lewes Dam at night.

Looking down the Yukon River from the boat lock at the dam, with the moon and Venus slightly diffused by haze. This was shot at midnight – the orange glow is caused by the street lights in Whitehorse.

The Yukon River at night

A few minutes later, the first faint glow of the aurora began to show to the east. The red lights are on a semi-trailer rig parked in the rest area at the Yukon River bridge.

Aurora borealis on the Yukon River

By 12:20 I started to get pumped as long ribbons of aurora grew across the sky directly above me.

Aurora borealis on the Yukon River

My next stop was at the M’Clintock River Bridge. I spent about 15 minutes there, and was rewarded by several minutes of very good displays all over the sky. This view is looking south down the Alaska Highway from the middle of the bridge. There were several birds calling here, including at least three owls. For me, hearing birds adds a lot to Spring aurora viewing.

Aurora borealis along the Alaska Highway

At 12:45 I stopped along Marsh Lake to watch a particularly bright display, and while I was parked there, one of the most impressive displays I’ve ever seen occurred directly over head. It was so incredible I was unwilling to take my eyes off it for even a second to set my camera up. I was directly under an extremely bright, fast-moving curtain of red aurora. It only lasted for about a minute, and I wish I could transfer the images that are in my head onto the computer! After it was over, I took a few shots of the displays going on around me.

Northern Lights along the Alaska Highway

I went out to my usual turn-around spot beside White Mountain and spent quite a while there watching very unusual displays. They were large, vaporous and very fast moving, perhaps impossible to capture properly with a camera.

Northern Lights along the Alaska Highway

The destination that I had the highest hopes for, the Tagish Bridge, fell flat. The aurora had gotten very dim, and although I stayed for almost 2 hours, never did return. Being able to listen to the swans was very special, though.

By 04:30 I was home in bed – it had been a great night. :)

Posted in Alaska Highway, Aurora Borealis, Birds, Photos, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 4 Comments

A Day in Skagway and Dyea

One of my nieces has just moved to Whitehorse, and yesterday we took her to see Skagway and Dyea. Despite a mediocre weather forecast, it turned out to be quite good, and it no doubt would have been a good day whatever the weather turned out to be.

Our first photo stop was overlooking Rat Lake at Km 136.7 of the South Klondike Highway. While walking back to the car, we spotted the first crocus buds of the season – right after the rains, as expected :)

Rat Lake, South Klondike Highway

I stopped at Emerald Lake just to get a photo record of how fast the ice is melting. I expect that this will be the earliest that the ice has ever been gone and the colours visible (I’ll update my article, When Does the Ice Leave Emerald Lake?? as soon as the colours start to show well).

Emerald Lake, Yukon

Some people were ice fishing on Windy Arm right at the Yukon/BC border.

Ice fishing on Windy Arm, Yukon

I forgot to bring Nanook, but Bobbie (my niece) did bring “the boys”, who normally travel with her friend Sheila but are with Bobbie until September. This was shot out on Tutshi Lake.

Tutshi Lake, BC

A dramatic sky over Tutshi Lake.

A dramatic sky over Tutshi Lake, BC

The new building at the Yukon Suspension Bridge is coming along well. A workman confirmed a rumour I’d heard that it’s a restaurant, and said that they’re aiming at a May 9th opening.

Yukon Suspension Bridge

It was ugly going across the pass – heavy snow and very low visibility, and the first cruise ship of the season arrives in 13 days :)

Snow in the White Pass, Alaska

The boys check out the grave of Skagway’s infamous badman, Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith.

The grave of Jefferson Randolph 'Soapy' Smith in Skagway, Alaska

The Kone Company was celebrating their 30th anniversary and had a long list of great specials, but with a lineup a block long, we went for lunch at the Sweet Tooth Cafe instead.

The Kone Company - Skagway, Alaska

Gulls resting at the mouth of the Skagway River. While Cathy and Bobbie went to the grocery store to browse things that aren’t available in Canada, I went for a look around town.

Gulls resting at the mouth of the Skagway River

Many seasonal workers have already arrived – these fellows were chilling behind the house used for guides working for Alaska Mountain Guides, who have a rock climbing and zipline course near Skagway.

Alaska Mountain Guides

The White Pass & Yukon Route had 3 newly-built passenger coaches arrive from Seattle by barge on Monday.

New WP&YR railway passenger coach

Our next stop was Dyea. The pilings are from one of the wharves that were used by stampeders headed for the Chilkoot Trail and the Klondike gold fields.

Pilings of old wharves at Dyea, Alaska

A couple of curious harbour seals at the mouth of the Taiya River.

Harbour seals at the mouth of the Taiya River

One of the unusual-to-us things that Cathy and Bobbie found in the grocery store was succotash, and the boys had us stop at Nahku Bay to check it out :) Sufferin’ succotash, boys!

Succotash in Alaska

It had been a long, active day and we were all pretty tired by the time we reached Bove Island at 6:45. Some people thrive in this this country, and I think that this day showed my niece that she’s one of those people.

Bove Island
Posted in Photos, Travel, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 4 Comments

Whitehorse to Carcross – History, Swans and Storms

Photography is a state of mind to some degree – the more I shoot one day (like yesterday), the more I shoot the next time, and I start to see things differently. I get back to really seeing what’s around me.

I had to go to Carcross today to show the cabin to a potential buyer, and got home with 89 photos in the camera. My first stop was one that I hadn’t made in many years – at a 1948 Fargo panel truck sitting off in the bush along the South Klondike Highway. What a street rod that would make – see what was done to this one! The last time I stopped, the roof hadn’t been caved in – other than that, the truck would be a fairly easy restoration.

1948 Fargo panel truck

Now in a “history” frame of mind, I stopped at the Robinson Roadhouse – I have lots of photos of it, but the snow adds something to it now.

Robinson Roadhouse, Yukon

Part of me wants this complex saved, but another part is okay with it rotting away – luckily, rotting away takes a very long time in this dry climate.

Robinson Roadhouse, Yukon

Looking back towards Mount Lorne.

Robinson Roadhouse, Yukon

South-facing slopes have now gathered enough warmth from the sun to melt the overnight dusting of snow.

Dusting of snow along the South Klondike Highway

Downtown Carcross – this view has been used on postcards for well over a century now.

Downtown Carcross

I heard a pounding of heavy wings and turned around just in time to burst 6 shots as this Trumpeter swan took off.

Trumpeter swan in Carcross, Yukon

WP&YR locomotive #95 was pulled out of the engine house and fired up, ready to get to work for the season.

WP&YR locomotive #95

I was very surprised to see a survey crew just finishing off marking the limits of the railroad’s property in front of the 3 cabins south of the bridge (including mine). Dogs have their way of marking territory, we use orange stakes :) I’ve always known where their property line is and it doesn’t affect me, but it sure affects both of my neighbours.

Surveying at Carcross

As I was heading back to Whitehorse at 2:30, some impressive storms began forming, and I made several stops for photos. This was the first one, shot looking north from Dry Creek.

Storm along the South Klondike Highway

Looking back to Montana Mountain from the Emerald Lake viewpoint.

Storm along the South Klondike Highway

Looking north from just south of the Lewes Lake road. This turned out to be a pretty cool spot – a glacial esker about 80 feet high provided the vantage point.

Storm along the South Klondike Highway

Looking north from a high rock bluff just south of Robinson.

Storm along the South Klondike Highway

On the rock bluff where the shot above was taken were the first new plants I’ve seen this year.

The first Spring plants along the South Klondike Highway

Back to storm chasing :) We don’t get much severe weather, and these storms are really mild compared to what many of you see, I know, but even storms like this are not at all common.

Storm along the South Klondike Highway

The heavy rain hit a few miles south of the Alaska Highway. A thorough wetting like this will hasten Spring’s arrival nicely :)

Storm along the South Klondike Highway
Posted in Birds, Cars, Communities, History, New Zealand, Photos, Weather, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 3 Comments

First Rain of the Year

It’s been about 6 months since we had rain. We get lots of precipitation over the winter, but none of it is wet. As a result, the first rain of the year is quite exciting to Yukoners.

We’ve had a few forecasts calling for a 30% chance of showers, but nothing fell where I was. Yesterday I could see showers off in the distance, but none fell where I was. Today as I walked along the Yukon River, it looked like there might be a good downpour falling on my home, but it must have just missed.

Rain clouds in Whitehorse

A few minutes ago, though, the rain came! Not a lot, but enough to get everything wet. The first rain quickly brings the first plants, and crocuses are among the first arrivals. So, although it seems funny for someone who used to hate rain to say, “I love rain!” But only a day here and there, and not on weekends :)

First rain of the year in Whitehorse
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First Motorcycle Trip of the Season

It was only one day, but it was a Most Excellent Day! I should have been working, but my eyes kept drifting from the keyboard to the sunshine in the back yard and on the snow-covered mountain beyond, and I finally succumbed. Cathy suggested that I go for a loaf of bread, and where better to get it than the bakery in Haines Junction, at the foot of the Kluane Range 180km to the west!

My first stop (at noon) was at the Takhini River Bridge at Historic Mile 946 of the Alaska Highway (Whitehorse is at Historic Mile 918). A pullout there provided a pleasant place for a short walk up the river, and a few photo ops.

Takhini River, Alaska Highway

I was surprised to hear a few days ago that the LaPrairie Bison Ranch has shut down, and shipped all of its bison to Saskatchewan in December. Their sign along the highway will no doubt soon be history…

LaPrairie Bison Ranch sign

The enticing view of the Kluane Range from Km 1526.

Kluane Mountain Range

An abandoned section of the highway leads off to the south from Km 1540.

An abandoned section of the Alaska Highway

I decided to stop in at Otter Falls for lunch, and I’m very glad that I did. Rebuilt a couple of years ago after being abandoned for a few years, this is a really high-quality operation, with cheap fuel ($1.389 for regular gas, $1.449 for diesel) and excellent food (the seafood chowder I had was exceptional). The fuel prices are 3 cents higher than Whitehorse but 2 cents cheaper than Haines Junction.

Otter Falls, Alaska Highway

Dimok Timber, the lumber mill at Canyon Creek, appears to be going full speed. I need to go through my old camera gear and find my split neutral-density filter setup – that would have made it possible to even out the extreme contrast between the lower part of the photo and the upper part.

Dimok Timber, Yukon

Pretty funny sign for a lumber mill :)

Lumber mill sign - 'Have You Seen What We Saw'

A panorama of the road ahead at 2:20.

Alaska Highway panorama

The highway at Km 1558. The old road can be seen to the left – it was very narrow and had lots of ups and downs that have been mostly eliminated now (this section of the highway is about 10 years old).

Alaska Highway at Km 1558

A rest area at Km 1566 provides one of the best views from any rest area along the highway.

Rest area at Km 1566, Alaska Highway

A self portrait at the rest area.

Rest area at Km 1566, Alaska Highway

Through the slot can be seen distant Mount Kennedy on the left, 3965 meters high (13,007 feet) and Mount Hubbard on the right, 4572 meters high (15,000 feet).

Mount Kennedy and Mount Hubbard

Approaching the village of Haines Junction.

Approaching the village of Haines Junction, Yukon

So much for my loaf of bread! Apparently my memory of it being open year round is incorrect.

Village Bakery & Deli, Haines Junction

This veterans’ memorial is at the Parks Canada interpretive center across the road from the bakery. It’s one of several identical monuments set up in particularly impressive locations across Canada. The text reads: “They will never know the beauty of this place, see the seasons change, enjoy nature’s chorus. All we enjoy, we owe to them, men and women who lie buried in the earth of foreign lands and in the seven seas. Dedicated to the memory of Canadians who died overseas in the service of their country and so preserved our heritage.”

Veterans memorial

An impressive street sign!

Antler street sign, Haines Junction

Madley’s General Store closed four years ago, and though it’s been for sale, there have been no takers. It was the only grocery store in town.

Heading home, I could see showers ahead but they never did hit the highway.

Rains showers ahead on the Alaska Highway

That was a great way to spend a sunny day – 6 hours, 360 kilometers, 89 photos, a great lunch – but no bread :)

Posted in Alaska Highway, Motorcycles, Photos, Travel, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 7 Comments