Driving the Icefields Parkway

I got home at noon yesterday (Friday), but the blog is still back on Monday, when I drove the Icefields Parkway (see map).

One Icefields Parkway Web site summarizes the experience perfectly: “To travel the Icefields Parkway is to experience one of Canada’s national treasures and most rewarding destinations. Stretching 232km (144mi.) through the heart of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site, this world-class journey offers access to a vast wilderness of pristine mountain lakes, ancient glaciers and broad sweeping valleys.”

I reached the start of the Parkway at 11:00, and within a few minutes was into heavy rain.
Driving the Icefields Parkway in heavy rain
The rain didn’t last long, and then it was back to Winter. The couple in the motorhome looked cozy having lunch :) Many visitors expect it to be at least Spring in May, but even the glaciers are still hidden by a thick blanket of snow.
Glacier along the Icefields Parkway
The hike to the Peyto Lake viewpoint at Bow Summit (elevation 2,088 meters, 6,849 feet) was quite a slog. The road for buses is also the walking path for everone else, and it hasn’t been plowed yet. Although there was a narrow path of packed snow, everyone punched through often.
Peyto Lake, on the Icefields Parkway
I added this summer photo to show you why Peyto Lake is such an attraction.
Peyto Lake, on the Icefields Parkway
It was 12:30 when I left the Peyto Lake parking lot and continued north. Even with sporadic rain and ragged clouds, the scenery is magnificent.
Icefields Parkway
Icefields Parkway
Icefields Parkway
For a photographer, this is a slow drive when you just have the view through the windshield and side windows to distract you – when you can see out the roof it’s even slower! Having a sunroof is no big deal to many of you, but I haven’t had one in nearly 40 years, so am thrilled to have one now :)
The Icefields Parkway through a sunroof
“Weeping Wall” on Cirrus Mountain is particularly impressive this time of year when water flow is at it’s greatest. This point is 106 km (66 miles) from the south end of the highway.
Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway
A strong north wind had quite an effect on some of the waterfalls on Weeping Wall.
Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway
Climbing up to Sunwapta Pass, which is at 2,035 meters (6,676 feet).
Sunwapta Pass, Icefields Parkway
Looking south from Sunwapta Pass, at 1:45 pm.
Looking south from Sunwapta Pass, Icefields Parkway
In the summer, Columbia Icefield and the Icefield Centre seen here, are a major attraction. With a layer of snow and low visibility, not so much. The large red vehicle takes visitors across the glacier.
Columbia Icefield and the Icefield Centre, Icefields Parkway
Tangle Creek, seen from the edge of the highway.
Tangle Creek waterfall, Icefields Parkway
Some of the more visible hanging glaciers along the route.
Hanging glaciers along the Icefields Parkway
An awesome demonstration of the power of the earth’s shifting plates!
Icefields Parkway
The parking lot for a view of Mount Kerkeslin also offers a short trail to this view over the Athabasca River.
Icefields Parkway
Athabasca Falls can be a long stop – there are many trails and viewing decks over the falls, the very impressive canyon and other features.
Athabasca Falls, Icefields Parkway
Athabasca Falls, Icefields Parkway
Athabasca Falls, Icefields Parkway
There are warning signs everywhere about the danger of going over the railings for a better look, but there have been 5 deaths at the falls in the past 20 years.
Danger signs at Athabasca Falls
I reached the north end of the Icefields Parkway and turned north onto the Yellowhead Highway (despite the fact that my car’s nav system said to turn onto the “Trans Canada Hwy” :) ). A few minutes later, I could see more rain ahead.
Yellowhead Highway
The rain never hit me, though, and the skies cleared as I got close to Hinton, where I’d spend a couple of nights with my son and his wife.
Yellowhead Highway near Hinton


Posted in Alberta, Glaciers, Photos, Travel, Waterfalls | Leave a comment

Driving from Calgary to the Icefields Parkway

I’m a couple of days behind in my posts now, as I knew would happen once I got into the Rockies where my days are long and there’s a lot I want to show you.

I got away from Airdrie, just north of Calgary, just before 05:30 Monday morning. Commuter traffic was already starting to get heavy.
Commuting to Calgary on back roads
I took a new route to the west, further south than my usual, and that decision got me a few photo locations I’m pleased with, including this one.
Cattle and the lights of Calgary, Alberta
Sunrise was beautiful for about 15 minutes – this was shot at 05:42.
This is Shell’s Jumping Pound Gas Complex, just west of Cochrane. It employs about 100 people and produces 7.7 million cubic metres of raw gas daily.
As usual, I kept to the back roads, in this case Highway 1A, which took me past the Ghost Lake Dam. It was built in 1929 by Calgary Power (now TransAlta) for power generation.
Ghost Lake Dam, Alberta
It started raining as I reached the Rocky Mountains, but with ragged clouds, the occasional bit of sunshine produced 3 rainbows.
Rainbow in the Canadian Rockies
The mountains above Canmore, where I finally stopped for breakfast – I had tried unsuccessfully to find an open restaurant in Cochrane.
Mountains above Canmore
My aids to exploring – the excellent SPOT Messenger, the car’s disappointing nav system, and my faithful lead dog, Nanook :)
My aids to exploring the Rockies
I took the short side trip to Lake Minnewanka (“Water of the Spirits” in the local Nakoda language). Located just north of Banff, the peaks along it are very impressive. This photo was shot at 08:30.
Mountains near Banff
Low water at Lake Minnewanka. The loader was moving ramps into place for the tourists who will arrive in large numbers very soon to this very popular spot.
Low water at Lake Minnewanka
Two Jack Lake, on the Lake Minnewanka road.
Two Jack Lake, on the Lake Minnewanka road
There’s a fairly short section around Banff where no back roads are available, and the freeway is the only option.
Highway 1 at Banff
As soon as possible, I turned onto the Bow Valley Parkway, a drive that I particularly enjoy.
Bow Valley Parkway
This is one of the reasons I enjoy it :)
Deer crossing the Bow Valley Parkway
Many of the trails and rest areas were closed, and I stopped to ask a ranger about it. He said it’s to protect the wolves, whose population is in serious decline due to humans. The next day, I saw a wolf pup dead on the Icefields Parkway.
Recreation area closed to protect wolves
You can see why trains are a problem for wildlife – it’s a very busy corridor.
Rail lines through the Canadian Rockies
Me at Castle Mountain at 10:00. The upper and lower cliffs are made of limestone and dolomite, while the prominent ledge across the middle is shale. The highest peak, on the right, is Eisenhower Peak or Eisenhower Tower – it’s 2,752 meters high (9,029 feet). When I was a kid, the entire mountain was called Eisenhower, but it reverted to its original name in 1979.
Castle Mountain
I only had to wait about 10 minutes for a train at Morant’s Curve. While waiting, I chatted with a British couple who had some relatives come to Canada in the 1880s to build this railway.
A train at Morant's Curve in the Canadian Rockies
At 11:00 I turned onto the Icefields Parkway. What an awful greeting to one of the finest mountain roads in North America :(
Signs at the start of the Icefields Parkway

Because I took so many photos that I want to show you, I’ve broken this day up into two parts.


Posted in Alberta, Back Roads, Nanook Explores the World, Photos, Trains, Travel, Wildlife | 4 Comments

Sleepless in Calgary

I hardly slept at all last night. I’ve been awake since 02:00, and at about 03:30, I decided to drive into Calgary to do some night photography.

I took the quiet way into the city rather than the freeway – didn’t see a single car for about 20 minutes, until I was well into Calgary. To answer the question you’re thinking about asking, I was at a dead stop when I took this hand-held time exposure :)
Night driving on a back road north of Calgary, Alberta
I really like Olympic Plaza, so that was the first place I went, and it offered lots of photo subjects.
Olympic Plaza at Calgary, Alberta
Each of those tall pipes has either a date range (ie “1950-1959″) or a city park name on it. At the top is part of “Citius, Altius, Fortius” (Latin for “Faster, Higher, Stronger”), the Olympic motto.
Calgary Tower, Alberta
Originally named the Husky Tower when it opened in 1968, the Calgary Tower is 191 meters tall (626 feet) tall. At 1228 metres above sea level, it’s home to “the highest 360-degree observation deck in the world”. It’s funny what you can do with statistics – in this case by adding the elevation of the land the tower sits on to the height of the structure itself!
Calgary Tower, Alberta
I invited myself for morning tea with Louise McKinney and Henrietta Muir Edwards at the Women are Persons! Monument (a.k.a the Famous Five Monument).
Women are Persons! Monument (a.k.a the Famous Five Monument) at Calgary, Alberta
The Dominion Bank building dates to 1911, and is on the Canadian Register of Historic Places (CRHP). Dominion joined with the Bank of Toronto to form the Toronto-Dominion Bank in 1955.
Dominion Bank building - Calgary, Alberta, at night
Trains run regularly all night through downtown.
Calgary, Alberta
The lights of downtown reflected in the waters of the Bow River, source of much of the city’s piped water. This was shot at 05:16.
Calgary, Alberta, at night
St. Vladimir’s Ukrainian Orthodox Church is an impressive structure.
St. Vladimir's Ukrainian Orthodox Church - Calgary, Alberta
Downtown from the lovely park called Prince’s Island.
Prince's Island - Calgary, Alberta
The first rays of sunrise start to light up the towers at 05:50.
Calgary, Alberta
Still killing time, I drove to the car dealership that I bought my car from, and put it back in the lineup where I first saw it. Yes, I am easy to amuse, but we don’t have car lots like that in the Yukon!
Used cars at Jack Carter Cadillac - Calgary, Alberta

I then went for a good breakfast, and now am ready to get the family day underway :)


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Honouring Bomber Command and Ancient Buffalo in Alberta

My objective for yesterday was to re-visit the Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, 209 km south near Fort MacLeod, but I got sidetracked a bit as well :)

Trying to work with my car’s navigation system was extremely frustrating – the directions even to get through Calgary just made no sense. I finally pulled over and did some digging into the basics of the system and discovered that the previous owner had set “Avoid Freeways” as a basic instruction. That explained much of the craziness!

With that sorted out, my first distraction was seeing a sign pointing to the Bar U Ranch National Historic Site, 3 km to the west. I never did find it, and I discovered that 2 parts of that directional sign were missing – the “4″ that should be after the “3″ (it’s actually 34 km west of the freeway), and the “Closed” sign.

But, Highway 540 did take me into some pretty country, so I didn’t mind at all. I got a few shots of the grain elevator at Azure. It was built by Alberta Pacific in 1927, and closed in 1962 when rancher Sam Brown bought it.
Alberta Pacifc grain elevator at Azure, Alberta
There are a few alkaline lakes in this area. They have extremely high levels of various types of salt, which is what causes the white shores.
Alkaline lake in Alberta
I really like tractors, especially when they’re working.
Tractor working in Alberta
The view to the west on Highway 540.
West on Highway 540 in Alberta
Those are cows in the bottom of this impressive little valley along 540. My guess is that it was caused by a river draining a glacier tens of thousands of years ago.
Post-glacial valley in Alberta
Another look at the Azure grain elevator.
Azure grain elevator, Alberta
That’s unique! Not what I expect to see in Alberta ranching country at all.
A house with multiple geodesic domes
Nearing the community of Nanton, I was reminded of an aviation museum that I’ve wanted to see for many years – the Bomber Command Museum of Canada, also known by its pre-2010 name, the Nanton Lancaster Society Air Museum. Whenever I’ve driven past, I’ve been unable to stop because I was driving commercially and on a tight schedule.
Bomber Command Museum of Canada
Admission is free but I was happy to put the suggested donation of $10 into the box, as it was clear as soon as I walked in the door that this was going to be an excellent stop. This painting is one of the first exhibits visitors see. Based on a real crash, it illustrates the appalling fact that of the 100,000 men who volunteered for Bomber Command during World War II, almost 60,000 were killed in action.
Bomber Command Museum of Canada
There are 16 aircraft in the museum’s collection, in varying states of repair from rough to near-perfect.
Bomber Command Museum of Canada
Being able to climb into the Lancaster and sit for a few minutes makes it very clear what a mission might be like – if you can imagine the deafening noise and the fear-driven knot in your stomach.

As always, I didn’t have enough time, but now I have it on my list for another visit, perhaps when I come down in 6-8 weeks on my motorcycle.

It was 2:40 pm when I finally reached Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, and I was getting a bit nervous about making my family wait for me for a dinner out. The plaza seen here was dedicated on July 25, 2012, to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the World Heritage Convention.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
The design of the large facility, which opened in 1987, is very simple, and it blends beautifully into the sandstone slopes.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
A tour is best started by viewing a 15-minute film, and it’s recommended that visitors allow 2½ hours to tour the site – an hour on the trails outside, and the rest inside.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
The various levels of the building and site can be accessed by either elevator or stairs.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
The view to the Rocky Mountains to the west, from the concrete trail along the top of the cliffs.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
A large wind farm can also be seen, on the opposite side of the Oldman River valley.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
The primary location of interest outside is the top of the cliffs that the buffalo were driven over starting about 5,700 years ago. It’s estimated that about 100,000 buffalo were killed here. There were some lengthy periods, up to 1,000 years, when this site wasn’t used. It’s surmised that environmental conditions may have changed to make it ineffective – abundant water, berries and buffalo are all needed to be present for an efficient hunt.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
There’s no question that some parts of the site may be upsetting to some people – the realities of life in the early days were often harsh.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
The displays inside are excellent – a brief look is possible, but a more in-depth one also is. Napi was the supernatural trickster of the Blackfoot peoples, and this section briefly describes the geography, climate and vegetation of the region.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
Some of the text is projected onto rocks – it’s apparently very effective, as that’s one of the things that I remembered most clearly from my visit 25 years ago.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
It’s very commonly said when discussing various Native peoples that they wasted nothing, but this board says otherwise: “In prosperous times, only the most desirable parts were taken, but when needs demanded, the butchering continued until nothing but the skull and a few other bones remained.”
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
The slaughter of millions of buffalo by Euro-American market hunters is touched on surprisingly briefly, as that slaughter changed the lives of the Indians of the Great Plains forever.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
Looking up at a full-size replica of three buffalo at the edge of the precipice is very impressive.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site, Alberta
Nearing Calgary again, at 5:30.
Alberta Highway 2 south of Calgary
Last night, we went for dinner at Boogie’s Burgers, made famous by appearing on the TV series You Gotta Eat Here. The burgers are indeed as good as the TV show said :)
Boogie's Burgers, Calgary

Today is a day of watching my grand-daughters play in a badminton tournament, and perform in a dance recital. Tomorrow, Mothers Day, maybe some exploring as a family…


Posted in Alberta, Aviation, History, Military, Museums, Photos, Travel, Wildlife | 2 Comments

A Look at Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site, Alberta

While my daughter and her partner, and my grand-daughters were all at work or school, I went exploring to the north, to see a historic site that’s been on the must-see list for many years. Now it’s still on my must-see list, at a time when it’s open!

The fast way from Airdrie to Rocky Mountain House is mostly freeway, but I was in no hurry, so I headed west on Highway 567, Big Hill Springs Road. This is really pretty country. Going this way, it’s just over 200 km (124 miles) each way.
West on Alberta Highway 567, Big Hill Springs Road
I’ve already discovered that the navigation system in the Cadillac is very poor – I’ve gotten some extremely poor routing – but haven’t totally given up on it. It got me to the community of Rocky Mountain House, and eventually led me down a gravel road, past this photo-op barn.
Barn near Rocky Mountain House, Alberta
A couple of minutes after the nav system said that I was at the park, I was about to turn around when I saw the gate.
Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site, Alberta
The park’s Web site said that the park was closed until April 30, then gave the hours from May 13th on, but gave no information about what to expect today. It was closed, but I walked around the site – the structure is the site of a fur trading fort built in 1799.
Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site, Alberta
Among the displays is one of the large voyageur canoes used in the 1967 Centennial Voyageur Canoe Pageant, the longest canoe race in history, at 5,283 kilometers (3,283 miles).
Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site, Alberta
The interpretation is simple but I found it to be very effective in taking me back 300 years.
Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site, Alberta
A viewing platform gives a good look at the area.
Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site, Alberta

It wasn’t until I got home that I realized that this was the back part of the large park, so the navigation system had indeed led me astray again. But I saw enough to know that I want to return in the summer when everything is in operation.

Only 24 hours off the lot, the new XPLORer was already very dusty! The nav system said that the nearest car wash was 66 km away (that also turned out to not be true, but I got cleaned up there anyway). :)
Cadillac CTS beside the North Saskatchewan River
A bison farm near the park, with a couple of calves in the herd.
Bison near Rocky Mountain House, Alberta
Various types of oil and gas rigs are seen often – these ones are right beside the bison farm.
Oil rigs near Rocky Mountain House, Alberta
I saw some bright colours on the North Saskatchewan River as I crossed on the bridge at Rocky Mountain House, and went down to investigate. Environment Canada was doing a river rescue course for some of its workers.
river rescue course on the North Saskatchewan River
After a day of exploring, the evening was Grandpa time – I picked up one of the girls at home, picked up my daughter and her partner at work, then drove another half-hour east to watch the other grand-daughter playing softball. It was a lovely evening for some small-town family fun.

As soon as I post this, I’m off to another southern Alberta historic site – more sunshine, more history, and more photo ops :)


Posted in Alberta, History, Photos, Travel | 2 Comments

Flying from Whitehorse to Calgary

On Wednesday, I made the 2 hour, 20 minute flight from Whitehorse to Calgary with Air North. The spur for the trip was to pick up a new car, but it was also a great chance to spend time with my kids and their families.

After some of the awful flight times I’ve chosen for various reasons, 09:00 is so … civilized :) This is the model airplane club’s airport, and the long-abandoned stock car race track a few blocks from my house, at 09:07.
model airplane club's airport, and long-abandoned stock car race track at Whitehorse, Yukon
Five minutes later, I was looking down on the Alaska Highway, with Jake’s Corner at the junction with the Tagish and Atlin Roads. That’s White Mountain to the right.
Jake's Corner and White Mountain
Landforms like this fascinate me – what could have caused the mountain to be that steep and then that flat? This in northern British Columbia, at 09:23.
Flat topped mountain
I took a few more photos of interesting landforms, but the next really cool thing we passed over was the W. A. C. Bennett Dam on the Peace River, at 10:10. It’s 183 meters high, one of the world’s highest earth-fill dams. Construction began in 1961 and it took 7 years to complete. Pretty impressive even from 35,000 feet.
W. A. C. Bennett Dam
I haven’t figured out yet where this is, but it’s place I’d like to see from the ground. When I have some time, my SPOT may help me figure it out – it’s 16 minutes south-southeast of the dam.
By noon local time (11:00 Yukon time), we were over the open Prairies. Spring is just getting started, and I saw a few tractors tearing up the earth for planting.
The central Alberta prairies
Some of the ranches are gorgeous – that appeared to be a large log home overlooking the lake.
Alberta ranch
Calgary continues to grow at an astonishing rate. I may not be a fan of cities in general, but there are a lot of things about Calgary that I do like. No, I’m not moving :)
Calgary, Alberta
Welcome to Calgary.
Calgary, Alberta
My sales guy from Jack Carter Chev, Jeff Stewart, met me at the airport, and very quickly we had all the paperwork done, he’d given me a good run-down of some of the car’s many, many special features, and I was on my way.
2010 Cadillac CTS 3.6

I’ll be spending another 4 days in Calgary, then I head home via the Icefields Parkway and Alaska Highway.


Posted in Alaska Highway, Alberta, Aviation, British Columbia, Cars, Family, Photos, Travel, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | Leave a comment

The End of Winter, the Start of Spring

This has felt like The Winter With No End – pretty well everyone’s been complaining about the weather the past couple of weeks in particular. Finally, though, Spring has arrived (and it looks like Summer is only days away).

Last Tuesday, Cathy and I had to go to Carcross to finish the cleanup of our cabin in preparation to hand the keys over to the new owners. We’d barely started down the South Klondike Highway when 5 caribou walked calmly across the road in front of us.
Caribou on the South Klondike Highway
We weren’t at all prepared for the heavy dump of snow that Carcross had gotten in the past couple of days! That made walking to the cabin difficult and some of the cleanup (the outside) impossible, and we have to be able to get the pickup in to finish it off.
Heavy April 30th snow in Carcross, Yukon
It had been so cold overnight that a layer of of ice had formed on the open water in front of the cabin where many migrating swans stop to rest and feed. One of the Trumpeter swans had died during the night – here, a juvenile bald eagle is checking out the yet-untouched body.
Bald eagle with a dead Trumpeter swan
A few minutes later, one of the parents arrived as well.
Bald eagles on frozen Lake Bennett, Yukon
The next day, May 1st, Winter returned in earnest. Conditions at the Whitehorse airport were so bad that this Air North jet had to do a missed approach and circle for about 20 minutes, waiting for the near-zero visibility to improve before making this successful landing.
Air North 737 in a May snowstorm
Yesterday, May 6th, the weather improved, and I was very surprised to discover the first Prairie crocus of the year.
Prairie crocus in the Yukon
There are always an endless list of things to be done this time of year. The winter wheels on Cathy’s Tracker get more and more weathered and ugly every year – this year I couldn’t stand to put them away looking like that, so decided to restore them. It takes about 45 minutes each to go from the left-hand state to the right. :)
Restoring aluminum wheels
The weather forecast today was very good for both Whitehorse and Skagway, so I decided that a little road trip was in order. It was still only 0°C when I shot this photo of Windy Arm and the Venus silver mine mill, though.
The historic Venus silver mine, Yukon
I believe that the person camping here is a field editor for The Milepost guidebook, but I couldn’t verify that.
Log Cabin, BC. Under that snow, about 3 feet deep, is the White Pass & Yukon Route rail line.
Log Cabin, BC, in the winter
Does it look like Monty enjoys road trips? :)
Monty, my husky
Nearing Fraser.
South Klondike Highway in May
The freshly-plowed rail line at Ptarmigan Point. Clearing the line each Spring is a massive job that’s now done with bulldozers.
Summit Lake.
Summit Lake, north of Skagway, Alaska
The cruise ship season has begun, but on many of early-season days there are no ships, and today was one of those. But more tour buses are arriving by barge from Seattle.
Buses being barged to Skagway, Alaska
The sidewalks are being cleaned.
Spring sidewalk cleaning in Skagway, Alaska
Some people can remain optimistic through almost anything :)
Sarah Palin store in Skagway, Alaska
Millions of dollars worth of helicopters await the ships.
Temsco helicopters in Skagway, Alaska
I had gotten away from home very early so decided to see how work on the Dyea Road was coming along. There’s an amazing amount of granite being blasted.
Blasting on the Dyea Road near Skagway, Alaska
The road to the Dyea townsite and beach gets very soft in the Spring, and a great deal of care is needed to avoid getting stuck.
The road to Dyea, Alaska
The tide was exceptionally low, so Monty and I walked the width of the lovely wilderness beach, over to Nelson Creek.
Nelson Creek at Dyea, Alaska
Nelson Creek, looking down Taiya Inlet.
Dyea, Alaska
I estimate that the road construction, which is removing the worst of the steep, winding and narrow sections, is about half done.
This little waterfall is right beside the main road.
Waterfall along the Dyea Road
Heading home, the WP&YR bulldozer was back at work. We walked over to a section of the rail line that gets particularly badly drifted, to see how deep the snow still is. Impressive.
Deep Spring snow on the WP&YR line
And when we got back to Log Cabin, the bulldozer was already north of the highway crossing.
Clearing snow from the railway line at Log Cabin, BC
My happy, pooped-out husky :)
The grand opening of the “retail village” at Carcross is less than 2 weeks away, and work is going on full-speed. It will house the tourist information office, a coffee shop, a fresh fish store and other shops.
Retail village at Carcross, Yukon
The arrival of Spring signals the arrival of construction crews. The wait to get through this 3-km section of re-paving was substantial – half an hour probably.
Road construction near Carcross, Yukon

So that’s the seasonal progression so far. I won’t see the next stage of it, as I’m flying to Calgary first thing tomorrow morning. I’ll be picking up a new car, visiting with both my kids and grand-daughters, and making a fairly leisurely drive home via the Alaska Highway. I’ll be posting as I go along, as the weather forecast is very good and I plan on making some interesting stops.


Posted in Back Roads, Birds, Cruises, Huskies, Photos, Railroads, Travel, Winter, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 5 Comments

A Day of Spring, a Day of Winter

This can be a frustrating time of year for anyone who enjoys being outside. The sun is doing a good job of warming the earth up to welcome life back in a grand way, but Father Winter still pops back for a visit.

On Wednesday, I took Monty for a long walk in a new location – the section of the Miles Canyon Road that’s closed during the winter. This is a road that I drive a lot but have never walked. This view is looking back down the hill to Schwatka Lake, which is the Yukon River backed up by a power dam.
Miles Canyon Road, Whitehorse, Yukon
At the top of the hill ahead is a very popular viewpoint over Miles Canyon, the downstream end of which is seen to the left in this photo.
Miles Canyon Road, Whitehorse, Yukon
Instead of going further along the road, though, Monty and I headed back downriver on a trail along the bluff. Any south-facing slopes now are just about ready for the first crocuses to bloom – our second sign of Spring, after the arrival of the swans.
A trail above Schwatka Lake - Whitehorse, Yukon
The trail was beautiful but we had to turn around when it went steeply downhill and was still covered by snow and ice. In another few weeks this will be a great place to come back to.
A trail above Schwatka Lake - Whitehorse, Yukon
Air North’s Boeing 737-548 C-GANJ arrives from Vancouver as we start back down the road, with a light snow falling.
Air North's Boeing 737-548 C-GANJ
On the way back to the car, we saw these Trumpeter swans flying in the wrong direction for their migration. I wonder if they had to turn back when they were unable to find any open water further north. The day before, the government’s Yukon Wildlife Viewing Program posted on their Facebook page: “Big jump in swan counts, April 15: 750 at Swan Haven, 320 in Tagish, and 330 at Johnson’s Crossing (a partial count, maybe more)!”
Migrating Trumpeter swans in the Yukon
The sun came out as we got to the car, so I went down to the Yukon River where it’s broken free of the ice. The light was wonderful, and there were lots of gulls who seemed to have found something to eat there.
Gulls on the Yukon River in the Spring
The raven in this photo was fun to watch. He had shooed a gull off that high spot, and was protecting it from other gulls who wanted it.
Gulls on the Yukon River in the Spring
The SS Klondike, with the new Crocus Ridge Medical Staff Residence to the right.
SS Klondike and the Crocus Ridge Medical Staff Residence
The weather on Thursday turned ugly. Cathy called me when she got to work to tell me how bad the roads were, as I’d planned on going to Carcross for the day to finish cleaning out the cabin, which goes to its new owners in 2 weeks. The snow arrived at our home a couple of hours after it had made a mess in town, but the forecast for the weekend made it really easy to stay optimistic.
April weather in the Yukon
Molly loves big snowflakes, and often gets quite excited trying to catch them :)
Unlike normal people, I really like nasty roads, and although I tried to work and ignore Cathy’s comment that there was even a truck rolled into the ditch along the Alaska Highway, I just couldn’t do it!
April snow in the Yukon
As soon as I turned onto the highway, it appeared that it was closed just ahead at Wolf Creek. It was actually single-lane around another accident.
Accident on the Alaska Highway
Over the crest of the hill, at the entrance to the Wolf Creek Campground, this old truck was probably a write-off.
Rollover on the Alaska Highway
Just 2 blocks further ahead, another roll-over! The roads were really not that bad, but some people just can’t figure out that their normal 40kmh-over-the-speed-limit driving may not be a great idea in these conditions. With near-zero enforcement of any traffic laws in the Yukon, though, this is what happens.
Rollover on the Alaska Highway
I went to the airport to see what was going on there. It was snowing quite heavily, with a strong north wind so it was pretty quiet.
The Whitehorse airport terminal building and control tower
The plow crews were busy getting the runway useable for the next flight from Vancouver in an hour.
Snowplow working at the Whitehorse airport
When I got home, I had to dig the snow out of the wheel wells. With the temperature forecast to fall to -10°C overnight, the car would be quite well cemented to the ground by morning!
April snow in the Yukon

There’s lot of RV traffic on the road already, and it’s less than 2 weeks until the first cruise ship passengers arrive. I wonder how many are mentally or physically prepared for this. Ah, Spring in the Yukon!


Posted in Alaska Highway, Communities, Health Issues, Hiking, Photos, Policing, Weather, Winter, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 2 Comments

It’s Not Spring in Skagway Yet, Either

This is always a busy time of year, and this year is no exception. With Father Winter hanging around Whitehorse long after he’s worn out his welcome, though, I’ve been to Skagway twice in the past 10 days, searching in vain for Spring on the coast.

For the past few days, much of my time has been taken up by shopping for a new(er) car online. It’s virtually all done online, as the dealers here have nothing in stock that interests me. Here’s a comparison sheet I set up at Consumer Reports to crunch some numbers of possibilities.
Shopping for a new car

It’s very tough to shop for a new car when the car I want is sooo different from the car I need. What I want is that yellow Camaro, the very-short list as of right now, though, is one of two Cadillac CTS all-wheel-drive models, a sedan and a wagon.

Anyway, our first drive to Skagway was 10 days ago, in my niece’s new RAV4. The intention was to go out to Dyea, but the Dyea Road was closed for blasting. With the temperature just below freezing with a strong north wind, it was too cold and windy to go walking on the beach anyway, so we stayed in Skagway.
Dyea Road closed for blasting
We hiked up to Lower Reid Falls, which is quite lovely when it’s frozen.
Lower Reid Falls, Skagway, Alaska
We looked around the Pioneer Cemetery for a few minutes, and I got a photo of the headstone for James Mark Rowan, a Deputy United States Marshal who was shot in a Skagway theatre while attempting to resolve a dispute in 1898. I added it to my Alaska Peace Officer Honor Roll, which I unfortunately had to update on March 30th when two Troopers were killed in a helicopter crash while performing a rescue near Talkeetna.
James Mark Rowan, a Deputy United States Marshal who was shot in a Skagway theatre while attempting to resolve a dispute in 1898.
That was a very quick trip, but 2 days later Monty and I went down on our own, and spent a lot more time exploring and shooting. Before I could get out of the driveway, though, I had to get the mud I picked up on the Kusawa Lake Road out of the wheel wells. With it now frozen harder than concrete, that took a while.
Frozen mud on my Subaru Outback
Our first stop was at our Carcross cabin, to see if there were any migrating swans there. I was very pleased to find that there were 26 of them right in front of the cabin.
Migrating swans at Carcross, Yukon
There’s no sign of Spring along Windy Arm…
Historic Venus Silver Mine Mill, Yukon
…except for the rocks melting out of the slopes and rolling down onto the highway. Last year we saw a fellow in a small car hit one, puncture his oil pan and then keep driving until the engine apparently seized. At the same spot, someone else has recently punctured their oil pan, but at least stopped quickly so the towing and repair bill will “only” be a few hundred dollars.
A punctured oil pan along the South Klondike Highway
We stopped at Tutshi Lake, and had planned to go for a long walk, as the temperature had been fluctuating between 0 and +2°C (32-36°F) ever since we left home.
Winter walking at Tutshi Lake, BC
The walk got substantially shortened, though, because the drifted snow was deep and “punchy” in places, making walking very difficult (even Monty was punching through in places, so taking snowshoes wouldn’t have helped).
Trying to walk in deep snow at Tutshi Lake, BC
There are some nice frozen waterfalls along the highway, this large one just south of the Tutshi Lake stop, at Km 61.4.
Frozen waterfall along the South Klondike Highway
As my regular readers know, I love “moody mountain” images, and the peaks above Goat Lake provided a good photo op.
The peaks above Goat Lake, near Skagway, Alaska
A quiet day on Broadway – it was hard to believe that the first cruise ship would arrive in only 25 days!
Broadway in Skagway, Alaska
The salmon enhancement area on Pullen Creek is one of the places where the arrival of Spring is the most dramatic.
Pullen Creek - Skagway, Alaska
This lovely 75-foot, wooden, ketch-rigged motor sailer arrived in Skagway last summer as “Lindy” (I got some photos of her in Taiya Inlet from a cruise ship), but the name has now been removed, and I can’t find out anything about her current status. Built in Great Britain as a fishing boat in 1944, she was brought to Alaska in 2003 by a couple from Juneau.
The lovely 75-foot, wooden, ketch-rigged motor sailer Lindy at Skagway, Alaska
Work continues on the Small Boat Harbor – they’re dredging now, and I watched a barge full of sand and gravel being hauled out into the inlet to be dumped. I assume that they dump it into the sea, but that seems very environmentally unfriendly given how rich Taiya Inlet is.
Dredging the Skagway Small Boat Harbor
As usual, I went over to the mouth of the Skagway River and watched the harbor seals fishing for a few minutes.
A harbor seal fishing at Skagway, Alaska
I take photos of old houses in a rather haphazard fashion. Some day I’ll make the time to be more systematic about it – Skagway has many.
Old house in Skagway, Alaska
After lunch I went over to the WP&YR railway yard to see what’s new. Shops seems to have been busy all winter doing locomotive and passenger car work.
WP&YR Shops at Skagway
I met this set just returning from the White Pass, getting the line cleared out.
A WP&YR locomotive returning from Spring snow clearing
From Shops I went down to the main passenger car storage yard.
The main passenger car storage yard for the WP&YR at Skagway
The “Lake Atlin” car is one of the railway’s oldest, having been built in 1889!
White Pass & Yukon Route railway passenger car Lake Atlin
Near the other end of the age spectrum, the “Lake Takhini” was built in 2004.
White Pass & Yukon Route railroad passenger car Lake Takhini
I hadn’t been up the road along the Skagway River for quite a while, so went up and took a few shots there.
The Skagway River in the Spring
If you want a free bus, just come to Skagway and get it :) “Leo’s Shuttle” isn’t a name that visitors to Skagway see anymore, but the company is still in operation – they’ve had the SMART shuttle bus contract since its inception in May 2000.
Leo's Shuttle bus in Skagway
When you go for months without seeing rain, the first of of the year is quite special!
First rain of the year
There’s getting to be a fair bit of damage on the road – some like this one are flagged, but most are not, despite stories to the contrary that you may see online.
Spring road damage on the South Klondike Highway
This time of the year, with just a bit of snow left, is the easiest time to see the slash along the Yukon – British Columbia border. You can see it at the bottom of this photo, taken just north of the “Welcome to Yukon” sign, on the far side of Windy Arm
The BC/Yukon border along the South Klondike Highway
And just a few hundred yards beyond that, it’s hard to believe that this tiny avalanche chute is the most consistent producer of large avalanches anywhere along the South Klondike. The highway was actually closed by an avalanche the next day for a few hours.
An avalanche run along the South Klondike Highway
Still in exploring mood, we stopped at Carcross again on the way home. Monty, always ahead, got a few yards onto the railway bridge before realizing that he HATES open-deck bridges! I was almost ready to carry him back to “safety” when he turned around and made it back. Poor puppy :(
The Carcross railway bridge
More historic homes that I need to get more photos of, because these ones along the Nares River won’t be standing much longer.
Historic cabins in Carcross, Yukon
I saw some more swans on the Nares River, and decided that the upper deck of the SS Tutshi memorial-thing might be a good viewing spot.
The SS Tutshi in Carcross, Yukon
It was :)
Swans on the Nares River at Carcross, Yukon
The further along this “retail village” in downtown Carcross comes, the more I dislike it. “If you build it, they will come” – wanna bet?
The new retail village in Carcross, Yukon
Spring melt is coming along nicely in mid-afternoon, even though everything still freezes very solidly again every night. A pile of money was spent on the building seen here, which is now hidden by the retail village and the coffee shop has moved out for the upcoming summer.
Spring thaw in Carcross, Yukon
Well, that’s the catchup. We have another 1-2 inches of snow forecast for tonight and tomorrow, then it’s supposed to warm up. Yesterday, though, I was back at the piles of snow around the deck – I know Spring is down there somewhere!
Digging for Spring in the Yukon


Posted in Birds, Cars, Communities, History, Nature, Photos, Railroads, Trains, Travel, Waterfalls, Winter, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 6 Comments

Spring Exploring: the Kusawa Lake Road

Spring makes me crazy to get out of the house, and Friday looked like a good road-trip day, so Monty and I headed west on the Alaska Highway. It was -21°C (-6°F), sunny and windy when we left the house just after 9:30 – great for car-touring, not so great for being out walking. I thought that Kluane Lake would be a good destination for the day, but it didn’t turn out that way.

The little band of feral horses was beside the highway again, this time right at the Km 1474 milepost.
Feral horses alongside the Alaska Highway north of Whitehorse, Yukon
We stopped at the Takhini Burn Rest Area at Km 1487 for a few minutes to give Monty a run.
This is the view west (north if you like that term better) right at Km 1500, with an old still-driveable section of the Alaska Highway wandering off for a mile or so.
Km 1500 of the Alaska Highway
The valley of the Mendenhall River, which is a surprisingly small stream to be in a cut like this.
Mendenhall River
As usual when I’m just wandering, I took the turn to the village of Champagne, along the old Alaska Highway. This view is to the west from near the top of a large glacial moraine that the road crosses – the old road was so much more interesting!
Old Alaska Highway near Champagne, Yukon
Dropping down to Champagne, which was at Historic Mile 974 until the highway re-route in 2002.
Old Alaska Highway near Champagne, Yukon
Another significant milepost, this one just for beauty.
Km 1526 on the Alaska Highway
This semi hauling a very large mining truck box not only had the expected pilot cars in front of and behind it, but a Commercial Carriers Enforcement pickup with its emergency lights on for some reason.
A wide load on the Alaska Highway
The log storage area for the mill at Canyon Creek was going full-tilt, with trucks getting as many logs as possible out of the bush before breakup.
Log storage at Canyon Creek, Yukon
I was going to make my usual stop at the Canyon Creek rest area for a walk, but a bus full of river guides was doing training there, so I continued on along the highway another half-mile and then we walked back towards the creek from the top of the ridge. It’s actually more scenic this way.
The Alaska Highway at Canyon Creek
While having lunch at Otter Falls Cutoff, I decided that instead of going all the way out to Kluane Lake, we’d go back and see what the Kusawa Lake Road was like, as I hadn’t been down there in quite some time. Our first stop was at Mendenhall Landing, or Steamboat Landing, at Km 3. The easiest route to the Kluane goldfields back in 1903-1906 was a trail from Whitehorse, but the trail was rough and freight costs high. The Takhini River was navigable for some of its length and White Pass & Yukon Route soon announced a schedule of sternwheeler service up the Takhini to this point at the mouth of the Mendenhall River.
Mendenhall Landing, Kusawa Lake Road, Yukon
Several Indian graves sit on top of the ridge above the Mendenhall River.
Indian graves above the Mendenhall River, Yukon
Spring in the coastal mountains (that is the Boundary Range ahead) is so pretty! This is looking up the Takhini River from the small 13-site Yukon government campground at Km 15.
Takhini River, Kusawa Lake Road, Yukon
There are several of these warnings signs at the main campground at Km 24, installed after a major flood in 2007. It was caused by conditions similar to the ones that caused another flood in 1982: “Throughout the summer of 1982, the persistence of above average precipitation within the Kusawa Lake region caused permafrost thawing and hillslope failure in the basin above the alluvial fan.”
Flood warning sign at Kusawa Lake Campground
The boat launch at the campground. With no lifeguard present, I decided not to go swimming :)
Boat launch at Kusawa Lake Campground in the Spring
This ice pressure ridge was on the lake just offshore.
An ice pressure ridge at at Kusawa Lake
Heading back along the lake towards the highway, with my little buddy Nanook on the dash.
Kusawa Lake Road in the Spring
We took a little detour down to the head of the Takhini River to enjoy the sun for a while longer.
Kusawa Lake Road in the Spring
Yukon Spring at its finest! The wind in the open areas still has quite a bite to it, though.
Spring along the Takhini River
There are a few sections like this along the Kusawa Lake Road that I expect will make it impassable for anything but high-clearance 4x4s for a few days once it warms up.
Kusawa Lake Road in the Spring
On the northern section of the road, there’s still lots of snow.
Kusawa Lake Road, Yukon - Spring snow

Another fine day of exploring. In a few minutes, Monty and I are off to Skagway :)


Posted in Alaska Highway, Back Roads, Nanook Explores the World, Photos, Travel, Yukon-Alaska Stuff | 7 Comments